The
Slate Industry of North and Mid Wales
Dyffryn
Nantlle and Dorothea Slate Quarry
A view of part of Dyffryn
Nantlle with Craig Cwm Silyn in the distance.
Across
the North West corner of Wales lies a long belt of Cambrian slate formed
about 500 million years ago. This stretches from the Nant Ffrancon
valley in the East to the Nantlle valley in the West. Along this
belt were situated some of the largest and most productive slate quarries
in the world. In the east the slate was won by open quarries using
the gallery method, while at the west end, the slate beds were found beneath
the floor of the valley. It was the depth of the slate beneath the
valley floor which influenced the quarrying techniques of Nantlle.
The only way to obtain the rock was by digging down and creating large
pits. These can be found in many locations in the Nantlle valley.
Some of the difficulties of pit working included the need to pump out any
water entering the workings and the need to haul out waste as well as good
rock. Both of these imperatives increased costs, added to which was
the Nantlle area's greater distance from the markets. Nantlle slate
was always at a disadvantage compared to the more easily won rock at Penrhyn
and Dinorwic further east and was always the first to suffer from any downturn
or recession.
Image produced from the Ordnance Survey
Get-a-map
service.
Other
difficulties were faced by the Nantlle industry. There were a large
number of very small quarries, a situation brought about by numerous landowners.
These small quarries had little capital to invest and no way to expand.
Although there were amalgamations and takeovers which created large units
like Dorothea, the tradition of the small quarry survived and can be seen
today in the long line of small workings along the south side of the valley.
Another major problem was disposal of waste rock. After the time
and trouble of bringing it up to surface level, it then had to be hauled
up again onto the raised waste tips, so typical of the valley. This
of course meant that any winnable slate under the waste tips was destined
to remain there. If history had been different and the whole valley
had been operated as a single undertaking, then the prospects for Nantlle
slate could have been transformed.
A view of Dorothea quarry
pre 1940 looking east. The wires and towers
are for the aerial ropeways or "Blondins".
Approximately the same
view today.
The oldest quarry
in the Nantlle district was Cilgwyn quarry, this is situated to the north
of Dorothea on the hillside and is now a landfill site. It is thought
to have been first worked in the fourteenth century and it is believed
that some of Edward the 1st's Welsh castles were roofed with Cilgwyn slate.
Dorothea
itself opened in 1820 and remained in production until 1970.
The land the quarry stands on was owned by a Richard Garnons (1774 -1841)
but the main driving force for quarrying in the valley was a Lancastrian
- William Turner (1776 -1857). The original name for the quarry
was Cloddfa Turner but it was renamed Dorothea after Gamona's wife.
The workings grew out of a series of smaller workings with names such as
Hen Dwll, Twll Bach, Twll y Weirglodd, Twll Coch and Twll Fire. Over
the years these pits were deepened and amalgamated into the large flooded
pit seen today. Turner gave up his interest in the quarry in 1848
and following a brief period of closure it was acquired by a family called
Williams.
John
Hughes Williams was from Llangernyw near Denbigh. He married into the Rev
John Jones of Talysarn's family & bought shares in the Company
set up by Jones & local Nantlle quarrymen (though half the money was
raised outside the area). Williams gradually bought out most
of the others by the 1860s, and his family continued in charge thereafter.
Remains of a steam engine,
once used to haul slate out of the Dorothea quarry pit.
In
1828 the Nantlle Railway opened giving the quarries of the valley a route
to the sea. The horse powered railway was of 3' 6" (105cm) gauge
and ran originally to Caernarfon. From 1872 the tramway ran only
as far as Talysarn where connection was made with the national rail network.
The Nantlle Railway continued in use, as a part of British Railways, until
1963 and remained horse worked until a couple of years before closure.
The final two horses in use were "Prince" and "Corwen".
After the horses were retired a tractor was used for the diminishing amount
of traffic. Over its lifetime the route of the railway was moved
many times as the quarries expanded. Much of its route is traceable
today as far as the easterly terminus at Penyrorsedd Quarry. Dorothea
Quarry used the Nantlle Railway to dispatch slate from 1829 until 1959.
There are two of these
large structures, known as pyramids, at Dorothea, they served as bases
for the chain inclines and allowed the waste rock to be tipped behind.
By the 1840's production
at Dorothea had built up to about 5,000 tonnes per annum and had reached
over 17,000 tonnes by the 1870's. The future looked good for Dorothea
but serious flooding problems then befell the quarry. In 1884 several
men were drowned when the pit was engulfed. In 1895 the Afon Llyfni
which flowed through the valley was realigned and deepened to flow to the
south of the slate workings. This cured the flooding problems to
some extent but as the workings deepened, the need to continually pump
out water became a constant drain on the quarry's profits. In 1904
the decision was taken to install a Cornish Beam Engine on site to replace
the waterwheels. The following page
contains more details of the beam engine and engine house.
This tramway tunnel passes
under one of the pyramids and once lead onto the Nantlle Railway.
As
the quarries of the valley continued to grow it led to the removal of the
village of Talysarn which was relocated to the west. Some of the
old village buildings remained in use by the quarries and their ruins can
still be seen today. This was followed in 1927 by the relocation
of the main road to the south of the valley. The route of the old
road can still be followed.
To
lift the slate out of the pit, wire inclines were installed in the 1840's.
There were ultimately eight of these and they were complimented after 1900
by aerial ropeways or Blondins. At first steam powered, the Blondins
were electrically worked from 1959. They remained in use until 1965
when a road was built to the bottom of the pit. The last of the wire
inclines went out of use in 1957. Other powered inclines were
used at the quarry to lift the waste rock up to the elevated rubbish tips.
Aerial ropeways or "Blondins"
were used to raise the slate from the pits. These five disused examples were
photographed at Penyrorsedd quarry in 1992. Today only one is left
standing.
There
was an extensive rail network on site at ground level and on the waste
tips. The track gauge of the internal quarry railways was 2' (60cm)
as opposed to the "main line" gauge of the Nantlle Railway of 3' 6" (105cm).
There are records of 5 steam and 4 petrol driven locos being used at various
times and horses were also used. Use of the 2' gauge quarry
rail network had ceased by 1968.
Dorothea's
closure came about due to the national decline in the industry, the slate
industry had reached a peak in the 1890's but from then on it was a story
of contraction. Dorothea was no exception as tonnages declined and
manning was cut - a cycle of decline set in. Other large quarries
in Dyffryn Nantlle also closed - Pen y Bryn in 1950 and Cilgwyn (now a
landfill site) in 1956. Today the only significant quarry still in
production in the valley is Penyrorsedd, now owned by the Welsh Slate group,
and busily exploiting a newly found seam of green rock.
Dorothea quarry pool in
the foreground with the Cilgwyn quarry tips behind.
Today,
Dorothea is a popular although unofficial diving centre and sadly there
have been quite a number of divers who have lost their lives there.
There have been numerous changes of ownership of Dorothea over the years,
each successive owner promising investment and regeneration only to be
replaced by yet another optimist with yet more plans. A visit to
Dyffryn Nantlle is highly recommended before development changes the character
of this unique area for ever.
The
Cornish beam engine at Dorothea Quarry
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to "Aspects of the Slate Industry"